I think because it is Easter weekend that my n gear jump stop wasn't delivered on time, but I didn't let that stop me from starting the 1x9 conversion. The conversion, so far has been pretty simple, though I'm not yet done.
After frustrating myself with not being able to figure out how to remove the crank, I went to the first place I should've looked for advice, the Park tool site. That site has everything. Anyway, here are the directions from Park Tool as to how to remove the Truvativ Fire X GXP crank http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=122#sram. I tirelessly fought to twist clockwise, when all I had to do was go counter-clockwise and the left arm would've come right off.
After reading PT closely, I twisted counter-clockwise with an 8mm hex and that stubborn hex
bolt started to turn. I got the left arm off pretty quickly. After that, I tugged at the drive side crank arm but it was not sliding out. I took an old rubber brake pad and a hammer and gently tapped the spindle on the left side to get the crank to budge. I'm not sure that that move was PT approved.
bolt started to turn. I got the left arm off pretty quickly. After that, I tugged at the drive side crank arm but it was not sliding out. I took an old rubber brake pad and a hammer and gently tapped the spindle on the left side to get the crank to budge. I'm not sure that that move was PT approved. The drive side crank came right off after that. I then simply removed the inner-small ring 
"granny gear" from the crank. I re-installed the bolts to prevent dirt and grime from getting into the bolt holes and so I wouldn't lose them if I ever wanted to go back to a 3x9. I already removed the large chain ring and replaced it with a BBG light weight bash guard.
"granny gear" from the crank. I re-installed the bolts to prevent dirt and grime from getting into the bolt holes and so I wouldn't lose them if I ever wanted to go back to a 3x9. I already removed the large chain ring and replaced it with a BBG light weight bash guard.Before putting the crank back on, I greased the spindle very well. The crank was not really 
spinning as freely as I liked when it came from the factory. It spins a little easier now. I slid the crank back in, tapped it again lightly with a hammer and old brake pad to ensure it was all the way through the bottom bracket and then reattached the left crank arm. I used a torque wrench to tighten it to 360 inch pounds or 30 foot pounds. That was about as much as I could put into it to. At that point the crank installation was done.
spinning as freely as I liked when it came from the factory. It spins a little easier now. I slid the crank back in, tapped it again lightly with a hammer and old brake pad to ensure it was all the way through the bottom bracket and then reattached the left crank arm. I used a torque wrench to tighten it to 360 inch pounds or 30 foot pounds. That was about as much as I could put into it to. At that point the crank installation was done.
Now all I have to do is install the N gear jump top, adjust the chain, and dial in the rear derailleur. I have to get the jump stop first though.
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